Arrival Sat 26th August: The pain of the 25-hour marathon of flights Melb- Sydney- Vancouver- New York has been left behind in the wake of our blitz of New York. Starting with the Frank Sinatra fan driver who collected us at Newark, took off at high speed towards the city before suddenly veering in a U-turn into oncoming traffic, to slip into a tunnel and take us a circuitous route, while telling us he was born in Hoboken, same area as Frank Sinatra, while playing on FM Siriously Frank Sinatra.
Rooftop drinks on top of Ink48 Hotel celebrated Denise’s birthday, city lights in the background and the setting sun over the Hudson River behind. New York, here we come!
Sunday 27th – Start the challenge of a new city
Jetlag night but out at 8am. The hotel is in Hells’ Kitchen area and we walk down the theatre district past the brownstones and fire escapes, the dogwalkers and the doormen. See Times Square in blue sunshine, walk to Central Park. Lovely big apartment buildings face the park, and a group of very old men and women were gathered to gossip on the edge of the park, maybe elegant residents of the apartments. Lunch at Fraunces Tavern, built in 1719, from where George Washinton farewelled his officers in 1783. Getting the hang of the subway with mad dashes in and out across town, best not to stay too long, hot and dirty.
Sunday night was open mike night at “Don’t Tell Mama”, a tiny club on the edge of the Theatre district. It was for amateur performers, difficult to describe if you weren’t there. The theme was the many sides of Leonard Bernstein so the songs were original by the performers, but in his style, musical, romantic, operatic, West Side story. Denise and I were hustled to the very front small table, practically under the spotlights, to witness the courage, vulnerability and sometimes complete hutzpah, of performers having a go. Old, very old, young, women, men, locals mostly – everyone’s a performer waiting for the big break, or reliving past glories, supporting each other’s turn. Denise and I felt like gate-crashers to the theatre world and fun to witness an intimate performance.
Monday 28th Subways up and down town
All over town today, starting at Observation Tower of One World Trade centre and the 911 memorial, very moving looking at the twin reflecting pools with 3000+ names on it.
The districts are all so different in architecture and styles, We popped up at Chelsea Village at one stage with its faded apartments, walked past iconic Chelsea Hotel, and sat outside a booth sipping smoothies, people watching old ladies with trolleys heading to Chelsea Market, young hip dogwalkers, then walked the High Line. It’s a reclaimed rail line planted with native grasses above the city.
At night we cruised on a cute small wooden boat on the Hudson River to view the Statue of Liberty, glowing green in the spotlight, so tall & striking up close, then the sprakling lights of Manhattan behind us.
Tues 29th Museums
Denise had to visit Zabars, an Upper west side deli institution, what an array of every delicatessen item you can imagine, hundreds of cheeses, salamis, knishes, bagels. We visited the Museum of Natural History and an immersive earth video experience, which however, had heaps of very squealing children running around chasing the illuminations, so we removed ourselves to the more adult MOMA, to see Van Gogh, Picassos, Diega and Frida, impressionists.
Then we holed up in the Bourbon and Branch bar by Penn Station before going to the concert by Billy Joel. An amazing experience, Madison Square Gardens seats 12000 and it was sold out, very enthusiastic crowd who loved him. Although we were in the highest seats, view was good and he still has got it.
tbc